Southeast Asia 2025 – Family Reunion

Family Reunion

Sunday, December 14, 2025

We got up and headed downstairs for breakfast. It was not nearly as good as it had been in Koh Samui. In a way, I was thankful for that — I wouldn’t be tempted to overeat.

Breakfast itself was pretty entertaining. There were a lot of businesspeople from China. I noticed that if they ran out of room on the table, they would place their dirty dishes on the bench or chairs beside them.

It always amazes me how what’s considered normal in one country can seem strange somewhere else.

We spent some time hanging out at the hotel and then headed back over to Emsphere to meet Sophon’s family for lunch at the Vietnamese restaurant. It was nice seeing all of them again.

After lunch, we went downstairs to the Christmas village for dessert.

Afterwards, we took the Skytrain to the new Skypark, which overlooks Lumphini Park — one of my favorite parks in Bangkok. I wasn’t particularly impressed. It felt like another place designed mainly for Instagram photos.

Family Reunion

Unfortunately, people weren’t just taking a quick picture and moving on. They were staging full photo shoots with different angles and poses, making sure they got the “perfect” shot.

Next stop was the Nintendo Store near Central. This was another miss.

We love the Nintendo store in New York City, and every time we visit we buy Sophon a couple of T-shirts. This one had plenty of consoles and games, but no T-shirts.

While riding the Skytrain, I noticed that the stop next to us is Nana. The way it’s announced cracks me up. It’s a breathy female voice that says, “Next stop…” (pause) “…Naaaa-Naaaa.”

Every time we passed through the station I couldn’t help laughing. Is it the way it’s said, the Rihanna song that comes to mind, or the Spanish word for grandma? Who knows, but I kept joking with Sophon about “Na-Naaaa….”

That night, we had dinner downstairs at the Mesh Bar before turning in for the night. It was pretty good.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Back to Bangkok

Airport at Koh Samui

Saturday, December 13, 2025

After a few relaxing days on Koh Samui, it was time to head back to Bangkok.

We packed up and headed to the airport. Koh Samui’s open-air airport ranks pretty high on my list of favorite airports. It’s small, relaxed, and honestly just kind of cute.

While waiting to board our plane, a lizard — about a foot long — dropped out of the thatched roof above us. I watched for a second, wondering if it had survived the fall, and then it scampered off like nothing had happened. I couldn’t help but wonder if I was about to hear someone scream after discovering it. You definitely wouldn’t see that at LAX.

I couldn’t help but notice they were selling something called “Poo Poo Paper” — paper that’s recycled and made from animal waste. It’s supposedly odorless. Still, some things should probably just be left alone.

Poo Paper

We boarded our Bangkok Airways flight back to Bangkok. I had sprung for business class. As we took our seats, I couldn’t help noticing that this Airbus A319 was at least two — maybe three — decades old. The entertainment screens were tucked into the armrests and swung out, which felt like a throwback to another era of flying.

We arrived in Bangkok, collected our luggage, and headed to the Four Points by Sheraton in Sukhumvit Soi 22. It’s almost across the street from the Marriott Marquis, where we stayed the last couple of times. The Marquis is nice, but on our last visit we would go to sit at the pool or eat at the restaurant only to be told, “Sorry, there is a private function.” After hearing that more than once, it starts to feel like you’re staying at a hotel where you can’t actually use the facilities.

We like the area. There are a couple of large malls nearby with plenty of restaurants, and it’s easy to hop on the Skytrain.

After checking in, we walked over to Emsphere, one of Bangkok’s newer and flashier malls. Bangkok seems to be in a constant competition to build bigger and newer malls, so even a place as new as Emsphere already has competition.

Thailand is a Buddhist country, but they absolutely love Christmas and go all out for it. Emsphere had set up a full Christmas village, which is always fun to wander through. I couldn’t help but notice the milk bread shaped like Santa Claus. I make milk bread myself, but what they did was well beyond my capabilities.

They even had parades with people dressed up as as United Overseas Bank Mascotts.  The children leoved it!

Sophon found some durian in the gourmet shop. I joked that all he had to do was follow the smell. There was no way I was going to let him bring that back to the room.

For dinner, we settled on boat noodles. I have to admit, I think Mae Malai’s boat noodles in Thai Town Hollywood are better, but the ones we had at the mall were still very good.

It felt good to be back in Bangkok. The city always has something going on, and tomorrow we planned to get out and start exploring again.

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Southeast Asia – Pool, Beach Eat Repeat – Koh Samui

Friday, December 12, 2025

By mid-morning, the routine had become clear: pool, beach, eat, repeat.

That’s really the beauty of Koh Samui. There isn’t a long checklist of things you need to see or do. The whole point is to slow down and enjoy where you are. A little time by the pool, a walk along the beach, something good to eat — and then do it all over again.

Whenever I stay somewhere like this, I can’t help comparing it to Hawaii. The beaches are just as beautiful, the water just as inviting, yet the prices are a fraction of what you would pay there. In Hawaii, I’d probably be paying five times as much for a similar setting. Koh Samui still feels like one of those rare places where you can enjoy a tropical paradise without feeling like you’re being financially punished for it.

I knew we were traveling during the shoulder season, but I expected things to be busier with the White Lotus effect. I was shocked at how empty the hotel was. Don’t get me wrong — who wants to wait in line and fight crowds? I might have to repeat this trip at the same time next year.

The one thing I had really been hoping to do on this trip was visit the marine park and spend some time snorkeling. Unfortunately, the storms that had been moving through the area had other plans. All of the tours were cancelled.

That also meant my new underwater action camera — which I had carefully packed for the trip — was once again going to stay dry. This was now the second trip where I brought it along and the second time I wasn’t able to use it. At this point the camera probably thinks I just bring it on vacation to tease it.

The weather stayed stormy through the morning, but by late morning the clouds began to break and patches of sunshine started to appear. It wasn’t perfect beach weather, but it was good enough. We spent some time relaxing by the water, had lunch at the hotel, and later walked down the street for dinner.

Did I mention that I really like Koh Samui?

Something tells me I’ll be back — if for no other reason than to finally give that underwater camera a chance to do what I bought it for.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Koh Samui Tour

Wednesday, December 10, 2025

We took an island tour today, and the weather cooperated just enough to give me plenty of sunshine for photos.

During the tour, Sophon mentioned that he expected Koh Samui to feel more like Hawaii. I told him it was about what I expected. Both places are beautiful, but in different ways.

Watching The White Lotus makes the island look like pure paradise — and to be fair, parts of it do feel that way. If you spend all of your time inside the perfectly manicured resorts and spas, it absolutely looks like paradise.

But like Hawaii, once you step outside the resort bubble, you’re reminded that it’s a real place where people live and work. Beautiful, yes — but not exactly paradise island.

The tour was enjoyable, we got to see a few temples, a mummified monk (with sunglasses) and grogeous views.  We got back to the hotel around lunchtime and had lunch there before heading down to the beach. The afternoon slipped by quickly.

By evening it was time to find dinner.

We walked down the street looking for somewhere new and eventually settled on a Thai restaurant called Siam. The atmosphere was great, but something amusing happened. When Sophon started speaking Thai to the servers, they looked confused.

It turned out they weren’t Thai at all — they were from Burma.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Koh Samui – A day at the Beach

The view from the room

Thursday, December 9, 2025

Thailand is often called the “Land of Smiles,” and it doesn’t take long to see why. The people are genuinely warm and welcoming. Whether you’re walking down a hallway, approaching the front desk, getting into a taxi, or stepping into a restaurant, you’re almost always greeted with a friendly “Sawasdee.”

We headed down to breakfast at the hotel and quickly realized it was going to be a highlight of the stay. I was glad I had booked a rate that included it. The buffet spread was impressive — Western favorites, Asian dishes, and plenty of local Thai specialties. Fresh fruit, pastries, noodle dishes, eggs cooked to order — it seemed like it went on forever. I’ve had my share of hotel breakfasts over the years, and this one easily ranks among the best.

When I first checked into the Sheraton Samui, I liked it. But in less than 24 hours it had really grown on me. The hotel has character. My room could probably use a fresh coat of paint, but it was clean, comfortable, and — most importantly — quiet. I slept extremely well, which after a long stretch of travel felt like a luxury in itself.

We knew we were visiting during the shoulder season, but with the recent White Lotus effect I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. To our surprise — and relief — the hotel wasn’t busy. At meals there were only a few other tables occupied, and finding chairs by the pool or beach was never a problem.

After breakfast we took a short walk down the street to the 7-Eleven — one of those small but essential travel rituals in Thailand — before taking the shuttle to the local mall before we headed to the beach.

I generally try to avoid traveling during peak seasons. Fighting crowds, waiting in lines, and competing for space isn’t my idea of a relaxing vacation. Of course, traveling during the shoulder season means you sometimes roll the dice with the weather and you don’t get the picture perfect photos. Sometimes you win, sometimes you don’t.

Within an hour of settling in on the beach, the wind started to pick up and dark clouds rolled in. Before long, a tropical storm swept through.

The rain came down hard and we retreated to a covered area next to the restaurant. Instead of beach time, we spent the afternoon reading and surfing the web, while watching the storm move across the water. It wasn’t the beach day we had imagined, but it was still a relaxing afternoon.

Later that night the weather intensified. Ligtning along with loud thunder.  My phone lit up with storm warnings.

But lying there listening to the storm roll through the island, I couldn’t help but think — even a rainy day in Koh Samui beats a good day almost anywhere else.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Koh Samui

Monday, December 8, 2025

We boarded Scoot Airlines for the short flight to Koh Samui, Thailand — the setting for the most recent season of The White Lotus. Thailand has become an almost annual trip for us. Sophon visits family, and we usually tack on a destination or two to explore along the way.

The first surprise of the morning probably shouldn’t have been a surprise at all. We had booked what looked like a Singapore Airlines flight, but it turned out to be operated by Scoot, the low-cost subsidiary of Singapore Airlines. While Singapore Airlines is part of Star Alliance, Scoot is not.

That meant the usual perks — frequent flyer miles, lounge access, and priority boarding — didn’t exist. The flight was less than two hours, so it wasn’t a big deal, but I had assumed I was buying a flight that was part of Star Alliance only to discover it was operated by an airline that isn’t part of the alliance. Situations like this always leave me feeling just a little misled.

When we landed in Koh Samui, the hotel had a car waiting for us. A short drive later, we arrived at the Sheraton Samui Resort. At check-in, the staff mentioned that my room had been upgraded. These days, I’m never quite sure what that actually means. The room looked exactly like what I had booked. That said, it was spacious, comfortable, and had everything we needed, so I wasn’t complaining.

The hotel itself sits on a steep hillside overlooking the ocean. When we first walked down to the pool and restaurant, I immediately wondered how quickly the daily climb back up the hill would get old. What if you made it all the way to the beach and realized you forgot something in the room?

Fortunately, the staff regularly shuttles guests back and forth between the rooms, pool, and beach. That small detail made the layout feel far less intimidating.

We had lunch at the restaurant overlooking the water and then spent some time wandering the property and getting our bearings. The pace of the trip was about to shift dramatically. Singapore had been all about sightseeing, crowds, and constant motion. Koh Samui was going to be something entirely different — slow mornings by the pool, walks along the beach, and hopefully a few hidden gems waiting to be discovered.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Singapore Zoo

Sunday, December 7th

The Singapore Zoo is arguably one of the best zoos in the world, known for its open concept where animals live in naturalistic habitats rather than traditional cages. Since my last visit, two additional wildlife parks have opened nearby. As much as I would have loved to visit them as well, time was limited.

I was feeling pretty proud of myself because my plan worked perfectly. We arrived right when the zoo opened, and for a while it felt like we had the entire place to ourselves. Several times we were the only people in an exhibit area and even had the tram to ourselves.

Because it was still early in the morning, the animals were active and the zookeepers were making their rounds with food. It felt like we were seeing the zoo at its best.

By mid-morning, though, the atmosphere began to shift. The peaceful morning gave way to crowds and the sound of excited children everywhere. It reminded me of the chaotic aquarium scene in Finding Dory.

We wrapped up our visit around 12:30 and felt like we had managed to see the entire zoo.

For dinner, we stopped at So Fa, a spot just around the corner from our hotel that’s known for pork rib soup. At first glance it looked simple—almost plain—but the broth was incredibly flavorful and delicious.

I had hoped to make it out to Marina Bay Sands to catch the light show, but we had an early flight the next morning. Sometimes sleep wins over sightseeing.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – Gardens by the bay

Singapore

Saturday, December 6, 2025

After that, we did the OCBC Skyway and the observation deck. The views over Marina Bay and the skyline were fantastic. Singapore from above never disappoints.

We jumped back on the Hop-On Hop-Off bus, but there was a marathon in progress, so several routes were temporarily rerouted. No big deal. We rode it over to Zion Riverside Food Centre for lunch.

Perfect timing.

Sophon wanted duck. I wanted Char Kway Teow.

When we got in line it didn’t seem too bad, but within a few minutes the line behind us started growing quickly. As I got closer to the counter, I noticed the stall had a Michelin Bib Gourmand sign. Apparently we either have good instincts… or very good luck.

The portion of Char Kway Teow was massive. I got back to the table first and assumed Sophon would end up helping me finish it.

Wrong.

He showed up with multiple dishes of his own. In the end, we both cleaned our plates. No sharing required. It was that good.

After lunch we hopped back on the bus and discovered the marathon had wrapped up and the routes were back to normal. We got off near The Fullerton Hotel Singapore to see the Merlion — the classic Singapore photo opportunity.

I always get a laugh watching people pose so it looks like the Merlion is spitting water into their mouth. It’s right up there with people “holding up” the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Not exactly original.

By late afternoon we were running on fumes. We grabbed a taxi using Grab — and that’s when my phone died. I had taken so many photos and used it nonstop all day.

Rookie mistake.

Travel rule: always carry a power bank.

We’re staying near Clarke Quay, so that evening we walked around the area. It’s lively, colorful, and buzzing with energy. We eventually found a British pub that looked promising.

It wasn’t.

Service was bad. The food was forgettable. After two days of incredible hawker meals, it felt like a major letdown. We cut our losses and kept walking before heading back to the hotel.

As much as I like 21 Carpenter, it isn’t perfect. The bathroom walls around the sink could use a proper wipe-down. And the bigger issue is noise. There’s a bar across the street. They’ve clearly tried to soundproof the rooms, but when people are yelling at 2:00 AM, you hear it as if you were standing next to them.

Singapore might be one of the cleanest and most efficient cities in the world…

…but drunk people are universal.

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Southeast Asia 2025 – The Flower Dome and Cloud Forest

Saturday December 6th

The hotel breakfast continues to impress, but let’s be clear — the star of the show is Kaya Toast. Toast, butter, and kaya (that coconut-egg jam). That’s it. Simple. Perfect. I’m honestly surprised this hasn’t caught on in the U.S. the way avocado toast did. It deserves better.

We headed out to Gardens by the Bay, which is non-negotiable on any Singapore itinerary. Inside the Flower Dome, they had a miniature train exhibit. I expected something small and charming. What we got was next-level.

Tiny recreations of Singapore landmarks, the north pole, San Francisco and iconic U.S. buildings all with moving trains and trolleys.  The detailing was absurd. We stood there way longer than planned, and it hit me — this is Singapore. Small country. Big execution. They don’t just do something. They do it better than necessary. Best airline. Best airport. Cleanest city. Lowest crime. Overachieving is basically a national hobby.

Then we moved to the Cloud Forest, and this is where things got personal. They were hosting a Jurassic Park exhibition. As we walked in, John Williams’ theme blasted through the space.

That score. I think it is second to Jaws as far as recognizable themes.

I’m a huge John Williams fan, and Jurassic Park is one of my all-time favorites. Hearing that music echo through the misty conservatory while animatronic dinosaurs loomed overhead? Completely my speed. It was a total nostalgia hit.

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Southeast Asia 2025

Big Bus Tours

Friday, December 5, 2025

After a wonderful breakfast at the hotel, we jumped on the Big Bus Singapore tour. If you’ve never been to Singapore, it’s actually a smart move — you get your bearings, see the big landmarks, and decide where you want to circle back later.

Midday, we hopped off at Hong Lim Market & Food Centre for lunch. I’d been there before, so I knew what we were walking into: organized chaos. It was lunchtime and packed, just like last time.

One stall had the unmistakable long line — the one with the Michelin Bib Gourmand mention that’s been all over YouTube. Good for them but as much as I would like to try their food, I’m not standing in line for an hour (or two) in a hawker center when there are 30 other excellent options within 50 feet. We split up and found other dishes with a reasonable wait. That’s the beauty of hawker centers — there’s always another gem.

Sultan Mosque

Little India

We finished the bus loop and Ubered back to the hotel. Sophon wanted a nap. I went for a walk… and realized Hong Lim was only a couple of blocks away. Had we known that earlier, we probably would have just walked.

For dinner, we kept it simple at BK Eating House. No frills. Fluorescent lighting. Plastic chairs. The kind of place locals actually eat.

Laksa

I ordered Black Carrot Cake (Chai Tow Kway)— and if you’re American, this is not dessert. No carrots. No frosting. It’s a savory fried radish cake with egg, preserved radish, and seasoning. It’s quickly becoming one of my go-to Singapore dishes.

Sophon ordered Laksa. Huge bowl. Rich, coconutty, spicy broth. He still wasn’t satisfied and added duck over rice. That duck was shockingly good — tender, flavorful, and easily the standout of the night.

By 7:30 PM, we were done. Completely wiped out.

Jet lag humbles you. I used to power through time changes and go out late without thinking twice. These days? Dinner with a beer and  I’m ready for bed before the sun fully sets.

 

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