Ukraine

August 21, 2011

I wrote about this earlier on in my trip and then decided to write a page on it.

I have to comment on a major cultural difference that I have noticed along the way.  Ukrainian women love to pose for photos looking outrageously sultry. They stand next to what they want to be pictured by and then strike a pose – hand on the hip, head tilted just a little, one foot pointed – smelling a flower, draped over a statue, caressing an animal – they all look like they are going for the pin-up look. In the 80’s, it was called vogue-ing and it was done on the dance floor.

I noticed when I travelled in Asian countries that the Asian cultures like to do “quirky” things in front of the camera – holding the sun/moon, jumping , have their hands on top of the pyramid – fun things.  In Yalta, this phenomena reached a new level.  There was a huge area where women could dress up in 18th Century Costumes to Hell’s Angels biker chicks (with motorcycles to sit on).  There were also doves, falcons, monkeys, rabbits, dogs and cats in what appeared to be the world’s largest outdoor photography studio.

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August 21, 2011

We set out for a city tour when we arrived in Odessa. At the end of our pier were the Potemkin stairs – the official entrance to the city from the sea.  The designer of the stairs set out to create an optical illusion, looking down the stairs you only see the landings, looking up the steps you only see the stairs and not the landings.

As our bus drove around, parts of Odessa were very nice.  A nice walkway park along the top of the Potemkin steps that let you walk to the opera house and a few museums and parks.

This being a summer Sunday, people were out and about, enjoying the beautiful day.  Unfortunately, it made it difficult to get to and from the ship.

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August 20, 2011

The Aloupka Palace was the summer residence for Count Mikhail Vorontsov, who was Governor-General of the Novorossiisky Territory (Southern Russia).  It was designed by the same architect who designed the exterior of Buckingham Palace.

The palace was built-in 1828 and took 23 years to build.  Inside, the palace is Tudor style but the outside is a mix of various styles.

Churchill stayed at the Palace during the Yalta Conference.  He had an interesting relationship with Stalin and was forever playing with him.  When asked what he thought of the one room, Churchill said, “It is very nice but I think it would be better if there was an aquarium.”  The next day there was an aquarium in the room.  Churchill says, “Very nice, but now it just needs a lemon tree.”

At one point Churchill indicated that Yalta was very beautiful but it reminded him of a graveyard because of all the cypress trees.  Since the time of the Greeks, the cypress trees have represented mourning and grief.  Stalin had all the cypress trees cut down. Continue reading →

August 19, 2011

August 19, 2011

Our ship sailed to Yalta.  I am glad I started in Kiev instead of ending it there, I feel like the destinations are getting better.  I had heard of a lot of Yalta’s history as a place for the Tsars to spend summers and as a place to treat Tuberculosis patients which Russia was a continual problem throughout Russian history.  After the Aristocracy fell, the Soviets sent model citizens who must have thought this was paradise. 

I pictured everything being Soviet Style but it isn’t.  Clearly there are Soviet Buildings but there are new buildings as well. This is already a tourist destination but will continue to grow, it already has that cheesy feeling that Oahu has and has the natural beauty with good weather and a dramatic backdrop to the Black Sea. Unfortunately, the beach is rocky and not sandy and only a few yards of it here and there and where there is “beach” it is very crowded.

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August 18, 2011

If the day had not been good enough already, the day finished with a Vodka tasting. It started with the old folks tasting six Ukrainian Vodkas and it ended everyone singing Russian songs, which none of us understood.  For the record, I wasn’t singing.

What was the best Vodka?  I couldn’t make up my mind!

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August 18, 2011

Balaklava (it took me most the day to learn how to say this and not call it Baklava) is an area of Sevastopol that became famous for the Battle at Balaklava in the Crimean war and the suicidal Charge of the Light Brigade where the British, due to a misunderstanding were sent into a valley where the Russian held three sides of it.

I knew very little of the Crimean war and what I learned on the way to Balaklava was fascinating.  It is clear that throughout history, Sevastopol is a strategic port to be held.  Russia who was trying to take control of the Ottoman empire used the port as a base for the Black Sea Fleet.  France and England sent troupes to make sure that the Russians did not secure a route from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. Continue reading →

August 18, 2001

There is one fountain called the fountain of tears.  Alexander Pushkin wrote a famous poem after seeing the fountain which inspired a Russian Ballet.  The legend goes that Qırım Giray – an outstanding ruler and a fearless warrior – falls in love with a Polish beauty in his harem. According to the legend, he loved her more than anything else he loved in his life.  His happiness was short lived, the princess died, either poisoned by a jealous woman in the harem or unable to endure being part of a Harem. Deeply grieving, Qırım Giray buried his beloved Dilara with the highest honor, having erected a mausoleum over her grave.  Concerned that the leader was neglecting his affairs of state, the court commissioned the fountain to give the ruler an outlet for his grief.

The fountain appears to cry.  Every so often a few drips of water are released and it spreads through the various levels until it reaches the base of the fountain.

I had to wonder if this was just a legend or if there was actual history involved.   Was this a case of life imitating art imitating life?

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August 17th, 2011

We left the Dnieper river and entered the Black Sea.  Our ship, the Viking Lumonosov suddenly felt like the SS Minnow.  I might have to adjust my quest for the Ultimate Ukrainian Vodka until calmer waters – then again, maybe not.

As we approached Sevastopol, I could see pods of Dolphins swimming close to the boat. Of course whenever I pointed them out to the other people I was having lunch with, they disappeared.  My lunchmates thought I was playing a prank.  I was glad when a large pod went by and they all saw it.

Sevastopol is located on the Crimean peninsula on the Black Sea and it is the home of Russia’s Black Sea Fleet for over two centuries.  As this is no longer Russia, Russia leases the port and facilities from the Ukraine. As with many of Ukraine’s cities, Russia left its mark with plenty of Lenin statues and soviet housing which is falling apart.

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We had a class on making Wareniki, in Russian, Vareniki and for my family Pierogies.  Dumplings basically filled with mashed potatoes with several variations (cheese, onions).  It sounds boring but after boiling the dumpling you pan fry in butter and onions.  I always cook twice as much as I think I am going to need and I am lucky if there are any leftovers.

At the end of it, we had a sampling and as everyone rushed out, I stayed behind to ask Chef a question and he noticed that there were still some not eaten.  Needless to say, all the chef had to make was a slight gesture and moments later they were gone.

Better yet – what do you think the main course was at lunch?  I have had my fill of potato dumplings – that is unless they are going to have it as an option for dinner.

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